Global Wanderer in Transient...

A land of quirky contradictions, Cuba comes across as a bit of a conundrum, awaiting all those seeking to unravel her secrets.  It is a place heralded for its medical system, and yet the same place where these same doctors make nothing in comparison to their North American counterparts.  It is a land where things like poverty and food shortages are accepted facts of life, and yet a nation whose citizens are ranked to have the highest literacy rate in the world.  And who of course, can ever disassociate Cuba from the man himself, Fidel Castro, the national leader and founder father of socialist Cuba.  A man both revered and reviled, Fidel Castro has outlasted nine U.S. presidents much to their chagrin, and at 81, stands to outlast one more if he can bounce back from his recent health woes. 

Politics aside, Cuba is an absolutely beautiful country, offering a treasure trove of experiences to the global wanderer.  From the frenetic pace of Havana to the laid back vibe of Varadero, there is a Cuban experience matching all travellers tastes.  And yet, despite my incredibly positive experience, I feel compelled to mention this:  Cuba is not always suited for "tourists".  Over the years, I have come to realize the very distinct differences between "travellers" and "tourists".  The hard and fast definition of both goes something like this:  Travellers tend to visit countries with the presence of having an open mind, taking in the experience and their surroundings, accepting the realities but embracing the hidden beauty of each place they visit.  Tourists, on the other hand, have a tendency to visit only a handful of countries but with more frequency, seeking accomodations that offer all the creature comforts of home, and only venture off their resort if a day trip doesn't require them overexert themselves.  No other website offers a better example of this than one of my favourites, TripAdvisor.  A place where people can share their experiences with others planning their own journeys, TripAdvisor is a place to observe the distinct differences between travellers and tourists.  For example. typical comments on Cuba from the "negative" tourist include winners like "Not as good as I expected", "Worst Holiday I Have Ever Had" or my personal favourite, "Don't Go if you like good service".  Don't get me wrong, there were a fair share of positive comments that balanced the negative ones, but it was these negative reviews that truly grinded on me.  Written with an almost "diva-like" tone, I felt instantly compelled to post a review of my own.  My case study for this was the Sandals Royal Hicacos Resort and Spa, and 5-star hotel that many tourists couldn't wait to pick apart.  The remainder of this blog entry is my response to some to these reviews, and written from a traveller's perspective:

"Check your pretensions at the door and you will love the Sandals (Hicacos)"

After reading a flurry of recent negative reviews about the Sandals Hicacos, I felt compelled to add a little balance and share my very positive Sandals Hicacos experience.
 

First off, I feel the need to say this: This is Cuba. Its a nation trying its best to expand its tourism base, but trying to do so in a very difficult environment ecomincally speaking. Know this first before deciding to come to Cuba. If you are solely seeking a luxurious beach holiday with impossible expectations, then Cuba is definitely not for you. If you are looking for a truly unique cultural experience complete with stunning beaches, genuinely friendly people and you generally have an open mind, you will leave Cuba awestruck.
Anyone who does even the slightest bit of research into Cuba goes there with the open mind knowing the food supply and quality is an issue. Don't go to Cuba if you are seeking 5-star, Paris-style gourmet.

The Sandals Hicacos is an absolutely beautiful resort, and something Cuba can be proud of. With a collage of colourful villas surround by a lush green landscape, the Sandals Hicacos has a more natural feel to it. Don't go here if nothing less than golf course-styled manicured lawns is what you are after.

Our Room: Lovely, very spacious and everything we expected. the garden views were beautiful and we were actually quite surprised at the large size of the bathroom tub!

The Beach: Absolutely stunning, and for all those in search of the blue waters you see on the back of postcards.

The Entertainment: Most of the shows were very good, displaying the distinctly Cuban flair that one would expect. We were a little disappointed that "Circus night" got rained out, but overall, enjoyed what Sandals had to offer.

The Food: There's no sugar coating it: Cuban food is very standard, but the buffet gave us a good selection of things to choose from. The desserts were fantastic (especially the guy that makes the crepes!). The buffet breakfast was definitely the best meal going there. As far as the individual restaurants go, both the Caribbean and Italian restaurants served up great food. We never made it to the seafood restaurant, but the beachfront grill was good (despite the onslaught of mosquitos when dusk falls... as I said, its part of Cuban life, and no reflection on the Sandals - you can't fault a resort for that!).

The Water Sports: We enjoyed a very fun snorkelling trip organized by the water sports centre, but were a little disappointed we were unable to take out the sunfish or the catamaran without having to do the mandatory lessons first.

The Staff: Absolutely fantastic. I have never met a friendlier bunch on all of my travels. And as far as the tipping = quality myth goes, its exactly that. The staff appreciated but don't demand to be tipped. We learned very quickly that being friendly and undemanding is what really equals the quality of service you will receive in the end.

The Spa: Great staff, and one of the most relaxing experiences I've had in awhile.

The Bottom Line: Most of the negative reviews I've read about the Sandals Hicacos seem to be more focused on the negativity of a Cuban vacation rather than the resort itself. All the gripes people seem to have about the Sandals can easily be avoided with proper research and knowing what to expect from Cuba. The tourist prosperity countries like Jamaica and Barbados currently enjoy is not shared (yet) by Cuba, and therefore, understand why Sandals in Jamaica does not equal Sandals in Cuba. Its simply a question of economics.

Reverting back to the food issue, the tragedy of it all is that we come from nations spoiled for choices and visiting a country that is of the complete polar opposite. By simply checking your pretensions at the door, you will be assured an absolute fabulous time at the Sandals Hicacos. Probably the most negative aspect of the resort were those guests I witnessed on a few occasions complaining about the most trivial thin gs! As the desk clerk so perfectly put it in one of our conversations: You're on vacation, learn to relax!

The Federated States of Micronesia is one of these collections of idyllic islands located east of the Philippines and directly north of Papua New Guinea.  On many world maps, the islands appear so tiny, that they are barely visible (unless zoomed in very closely).  And yet despite its relatively isolated existence, even unassuming Micronesia has its own private collection of World War II wrecks. 

Many travelers have often said that what makes Micronesia so appealing is its fantastic cultural preservation despite globalization.  Incredibly, there are still some island natives today that still live as they did hundreds of years ago, loin cloths, stone money and all!

Thus, it can be said that for all those seeking empty beaches, a genuinely friendly culture, lush jungle interiors, and a taste for the unfamiliar, Micronesia could very well be your own personal paradise on earth.

It is said that nothing can prepare the traveller for the adventure that awaits them in Kenya. No matter how many books one has read, regardless of how many movies one has seen, very few places on earth can compete with the Safari experience of a lifetime in Kenya. Without a shadow of a doubt, I can assuredly say that this land of deep historical and cultural heritage is definitely on the “to do” list in my lifetime.

Surrounded by Ethiopia, Somalia, Tanzania and Uganda, Kenya is almost landlocked with the exception of its southeast shoreline that slips into the Indian Ocean.

As a child, I always associated a place like Kenya with the legendary Tarzan, swinging from vine to vine, chatting with the monkeys and mingling with the elephants by the local watering hole. With the passage of time and entering adulthood, that image of has since evolved, but the uncontrollable curiosity I had as a boy still remains.

Most of North Americans’ exposure to Kenya predominantly comes to life through magazines like National Geographic, splashed across colourful pages inviting the armchair traveler into a world like no other on the planet. The Kenyan people are also often portrayed as being incredible marathon runners, and with good reason (they have dominated the Boston Marathon over the past 20 years, winning it a staggering 15 times!).

Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, bursts with an energy that combines its rich cultural roots with a touch of Western flair. And despite now having to confront its own global warming issues (as the snows of Mt. Kilimanjaro continue to melt), Kenya continues to move forward with attempts to preserve its natural beauty.

It is often said that Kenya is THE Africa of our dreams. From the thundering annual migration of the wildebeest, to the incredibly well-preserved Maasai people’s culture, Kenya is a realm where the global wanderer can experience almost every imaginable African fantasy. It is a place where one can truly step back in time, and visit an Africa that many feel no longer exists… but does.

Two summers ago, I had the pleasure of having two seasoned global wanderers stay with me in Toronto. Already having amassed an incredible amount of air miles, Mike and Erica's journey was final nearing its end, a trek that already included five continents spanning over two years. Affectionately referred to as "Mic 'n Ric" by their fellow travelers and friends, I first met this "dynamic duo" while teaching in English in Japan back in 2001.

Originally from Brisbane, Australia, Mic ‘n Ric eventually departed Japan in search of adventure and global enlightenment. I caught brief glimpses of their travels through emails as they made their way through Southeast Asia, up through China, across the Middle East, and grazing past North Africa before touching down in England. A few months later, Mic ‘n Ric would find themselves bidding farewell to England and crossing the Atlantic Ocean en route to New York. After a couple weeks stay in New York, Mike and Erica would find themselves on a bus bound for Toronto, Canada, where our paths would finally cross again.

Greeting them with a warm welcome, we would spend the next several hours back at my flat sharing the stories of our global wanderings. It was then that I first learned of their forthcoming voyage, this time bound for South America. With the exception of Antarctica, South America was the sixth and final continent needed to complete their “round-the-world” trek. In just a few days, Mic 'n Ric would find themselves in a land almost every global wanderer dreams of visiting at least once in a lifetime.

Two months later, Mic 'n Ric returned to Toronto for a final visit, bringing with them a vivid collection of tales to tell and photos to share. Having never set foot in South America personally, I was fascinated by the images they displayed to me. I viewed hundreds of photos that night, but would find myself completely captivated by one photo in particular, one taken of the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia.

Almost resembling a visit to another planet, the Uyuni Salt Flats (locally referred to as the “Salar de Uyuni”) is the largest salt bed in the world. The landscape appeared so incredibly unique, the horizon seemed almost unidentifiable at times, quite literally merging the sky and salt flats as one. To this date, I have never seen such photos that I’ve had more difficulty describing with words.

Of all the South American countries, Bolivia has always intrigued me on a level that expands beyond imagination. Oftentimes referred to as the “Tibet of the Americas”, Bolivia is the highest and most isolated country in the Western hemisphere. Unlike many of its bordering neighbours, Bolivia is solidly landlocked, and is said to offer the traveler a variety of landscapes that range from lush, green jungles to rugged mountain peaks piercing the sky above. Given it’s relatively low profile (compared to Brazil, Peru and Argentina), Bolivia is often considered a place off-the-beaten-track and usually skipped by the swath of tourists that descend upon South America every year. That being said, Bolivia provides an opportunity for the global wanderer to envelop in an experience like that of no other: The experience of discovering the undiscovered.

One day I hope to make it to Bolivia, sooner rather than later. At one time only thinking of Bolivia in terms of llamas, isolation and colourful woven clothing, my mind seeks to one day expand this collection of images to include the heart and soul of this beautiful South American nation.

Traveler’s Note: Mike and Erica have since returned home to their native Australia, finally settling down together as a married couple after their global odyssey. All photos below taken personally by Mike and Erica.